Wednesday, August 20, 2014

New book on boating blazers


The momentum is growing around a new coffee table book on boating blazers.

You may recall told you about "Rowing Blazers" last year. Back then, the book by Jack Carlson, who collaborated with #menswear personality F.E. Castleberry, was mostly a concept. That's not the case now.

"Rowing Blazers" has been available across the pond since early summer, when Carlson launched the book with a fancy party at Ralph Lauren's London store.

Since then, the book — full of #menswear porn — has received considerable attention in magazines, blogs and other outlets, including the U.K.'s Daily Mail newspaper. Now "Rowing Blazers" is available here in America.

No announcement has been made yet, but sources tell Carlson is working on launch parties in New York and Washington. Boston would seem likely too.

Monday, August 11, 2014

Think tartan when commissioning a jacket for fall

The time is now to commission a custom sport jacket for autumn and winter.

Whether it is made-to-measure or bespoke, you should begin planning what to wear when temperatures require tweed to be pulled from the back of the closest sometime in October or early November, depending on where you live. After all, the last thing you want is to wait and then find out that nothing can be delivered before Christmas.

The tartan jacket pictured below caught’s attention as perfect sartorial inspiration for a custom sport jacket, especially if you already have a few standard tweed jackets and want something a little bit more playful. You might even call this a go-to-hell jacket.

PHOTO courtesy of Polo Ralph Lauren.

While you can buy this sport jacket from Polo Ralph Lauren ($895; available here), you will pay a significant sum for something that wasn't even made for you.

And if you do use this as inspiration for a commission, here are some stylistic considerations:
  • Hacking pockets.
  • Ticket pocket.
  • Patch pockets.
  • Side vents.
  • Partial lining (especially important if being worn inside).
  • Surgeon’s cuffs.

Friday, August 8, 2014

The best of the new Lands' End

If you are like this correspondent then you receive a lot of catalogues in the mail.

Lands’ End, Restoration Hardware, J. Crew, J. Press, Sierra Trading Post and Brooks Brothers. Heck, even an occasional Jos. A. Bank mailer arrives. For many, this is junk mail. For others, catalogues are style porn.

And the newest catalogue from Lands’ End didn’t fail to satisfy to one’s cravings for style porn.

In fact, it stood out as a radical departure from Lands’ End traditional — some might even say ho-hum — offerings of the past.

This is more J. Crew-meets-Banana Republic than the Lands’ End clothes worn by your father. You know those pleated super-short shorts of the 1980s worn by Clark Griswold in the cult classic film “National Lampoon’s Vacation.” 

Among the new offerings that caught’s attention:

PHOTOS courtesy of Lands' End.

At $198 (available here), the sport jacket pictured above, available in both herringbone and Glen plaid, is priced right for those who cannot afford bespoke or made-to-measure but don’t want to sacrifice style. The price gets even better because Lands’ End runs frequent promotions of 25% or 30%, meaning the $198 price should drop even further by the time the temperature drops enough to make wearing it practical.

Sure, the jacket’s cloth could be improved, as the wool and nylon blend is a bit disappointing from a quality perspective. However, at under $200 you aren’t going to get cloth with a lot of  provenance from a well-established Scottish or Italian mill.

While you can still get a heck of deal on made in America jeans from Canvas, the more youth-oriented Lands’ End brand, the new slim-fit jeans ($59; available here) come in what Lands’ End calls “deep sea blue,” “rough seas” and “night seas.”

Best of all you can personalize the leather patch on the waistband. Enough with advertising the brand of the jeans you are wearing, unless of course a big-name brand is paying you to do so. Just about anything, including your initials, can be etched onto the patch — making these jeans truly yours and yours alone — for only $6.

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Tweedy snapshots from Sweden

One of this correspondent's favorite shops is Tweed Country Sports, a lovely little haberdashery for the discerning gentleman in Stockholm.

You may recall seeing the portrait of proprietor Karl Oskar Källsner, taken during last month's pilgrimage and recently published here on

Here are a few other pictures this correspondent snapped.


Monday, August 4, 2014

100 years later: The unbelievable style of World War I-era ambassadors

As the world looks back 100 years after the commencement of World War I, one picture caught the attention of

It's this picture of the German ambassador to France at the time war was declared in 1914:

Talk about style. 

Of course, World War I changed everything. While court dress continues to be worn in some limited contexts, this was the beginning of the end of all things imperial and regal.

Monday, July 28, 2014

The new shirt

Editor's note — This is part of a continuing Pinstripes and Tweed series on custom clothing   


Here it is: The new made-to-measure shirt from Thresher & Glenny that was previewed last month.

Look at that collar. It's a perfect execution of the classic cutaway collar. 

And cloth, woven from Sea Island cotton, is so soft to the hand. It's almost incredible, actually. But then again, you wouldn't expect anything less with Thresher & Glenny being Her Majesty the Queen's shirtmaker.

Stay tuned for a complete review as well as a look at Thresher & Glenny's made-to-measure sport jacket.

Friday, July 25, 2014